- J. Gettleman, "Babylon
Awaits an Iraq Without Fighting," in The New York Times, April 18, 2006:
"Ancient Babylon, celebrated as a fount of law, writing and urban
living, sits just outside the modern-day city of Hilla, about 60 miles
south of Baghdad. Hilla is neither haunted by Sunni insurgents nor
overwhelmed by Shiite militias. And though it has a mix of Shiites and
Sunnis, it has not been afflicted by the sectarian violence that has
paralyzed so many other heterogeneous parts of Iraq. ... Emad Lafta
al-Bayati, Hilla's mayor, has big plans for Babylon. 'I want
restaurants, gift shops, long parking lots,' he said. ... [Unesco] is
pumping millions of dollars into protecting and restoring Babylon and a
handful of other ancient ruins in Iraq. Unesco has even printed up a
snazzy brochure, with Babylon listed as the premier destination, to
hand out to wealthy donors. 'Cultural tourism could become Iraq's
second biggest industry, after oil,' said Philippe Delanghe, a United
Nations official helping with the project. But before Iraq becomes the
next Egypt, he said wryly, 'a few little things have to happen.' One of
those, of course, is better security. The American military still
maintains bases near Babylon, but next month, in a sign of how
relatively stable the area has become, most troops will pull out and
head north to Baghdad, where they are needed more. Many Iraqis said it
was about time. Occupying forces have been blamed for much of Babylon's
recent demise. Donny George, head of Iraq's board of antiquities, said
that Polish troops dug trenches through an ancient temple and that
American contractors paved over ruins to make a helicopter landing pad.
'How are we supposed to get rid of the helipad now?' Mr. George asked.
'With jackhammers? Can you imagine taking a jackhammer to the remains
of one of the most important cities in the history of mankind? I mean,
come on, this is Babylon.'" "Today, the site is dominated by the two
kitschy palaces Mr. Hussein built, some mud ruins, some deep holes and
lots of barbed wire. But even Mr. George is not dispirited. He is
meeting regularly with archaeologists from around the world and laying
plans for a cuneiform study center and a tourist village — to be
erected outside the ancient city's borders, no doubt. 'One day millions
of people will visit Babylon,' he said. 'I'm just not sure anybody
knows when.'"
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Photo: "Johan Spanner/Polaris, for The New York Times. A Polish
helicopter flies over excavated parts of Babylon. Over the years,
colonial powers took artifacts and Saddam Hussein built on
Nebuchadnezzar's palace. Then, the occupation." |